Le Nid de Paille-en-Plume

Cozy Nest

Brightened by three large windows and refreshed with a vivid new coat of whitewashing, this sweet retreat in central Besançon opens to a traditional stone building’s shared courtyard. The eco-renovated space is a cheery, natural apartment designed by architect Merril Sinéus who used locally sourced materials (Jura wood, Burgundy stone) for its upgrade. Created for two, the home’s coziness factor is enhanced by a wood-burning stove. The updated bedroom and bathroom suite has a double bed and a new, polished concrete shower, plus a built-in wood workstation for getting things done. The studio-styled kitchen opens onto the built-in banco-seating/dining space, and the new banco extends into the living room, sofa style, accented by classic, exposed ceiling timbers and the stove.

Around

Located between the train station and historical city center of Besançon, this little getaway is about seven minutes on foot from the train station and a quick five-minute walk to the heart of town. Near the border to Switzerland, France’s Besançon is the historical watchmaking capital of the country. The well-preserved old town stands on the banks of the Doubs River at a horseshoe curve that cradles the city, known as France’s “jewel of the East.” The city’s landmark is its 17th-century Citadel, an architectural masterpiece by Vauban which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It sits on a massive rock outcropping and is also the site of several museums, an insectarium and a zoo. Besançon’s other primary landmark is its St. Jean Cathedral, a medieval structure with Florentine art by Fra Bartolomeo and an astronomic clock as a symbol of its importance in the watchmaking world. No surprise that the city is home to a Museum of Time, housed in a Renaissance palace hung with Bruges tapestrices from the 17th century.

Outdoor adventures in the area include boat trips on the River Doubs and along the canal, and hitting the trailheads in town that lead into the verdant valley and the hills of the Jura mountains.

Location

Nearest airports: Basel (Switzerland, 2.5 hours); Lyon (4-4.5 hours), Paris (2 hours via TGV)

Best time to visit

April to October