V & M No. 23 & 25

Homes with Soul in the Heart of Puglia

The Puglian town of Cisternino is an enchanting setting for this duo of historical homes. Overlooking the glorious Valle d'Itria, it's a maze of whitewashed medieval buildings, each with its own story. 

And we love this particular story. Several years ago, an art historian by the name of Miriana and her father decided to invest in two tiny houses. Built at the end of the 17th century, they were once owned by the Church and designed to be donated to single mothers. They set about restoring them, which took more than two years, but sadly Miriana's father passed away just after they finished work. 

"Fortunately, he managed to see our project coming to an end," she tells us. "The houses reflect his genuine spirit; the passion, ambition and determination he put on this project until the end." In tribute to her father, she named the houses after the initials of their first names, V & M. 



Thanks to Miriana's professional training and her father's passion, the homes have been restored with a conservationist's eye. As she explains, they embraced the structure's imperfections and rustic features, adding handmade furnishings and original objects to preserve their historical feel.

Adding to their appeal, the houses are located in a family street, which is closed to traffic and set back from the crowds of the historical town center, giving them a wonderfully intimate setting. "You will be immersed in the life of the borgo," she says, "with children playing in the street, people chatting in front of their doors and engaging in their daily activities."

These sweet little homes make a great base for visitors looking to be immersed in the atmosphere of Cisternino and to explore the wider region. 

The stone houses that make up this vacation home rental in Italy are set on two levels. No 23 has a living room, kitchen and bathroom on the first floor, and the bed is on the mezzanine where once food and olive oil were stored. No 25 has a old stone fireplace used for cooking that fills the room with light, as well as vaulted ceilings and the old mouth of a well. Each sleeps two guests.

The property is accessible only by steep external stone stairs. The houses have fully-equipped kitchens, a washing machine and shower rooms.

AROUND

Cisternino was established in the 800s by an order of Greek Orthodox monks who built a monastery around which the hill town gradually grew. Today, it's a complex of whitewashed stone buildings with cave-like interiors. The medieval center, with its enclosed main square Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, radiates outwards in a network of narrow alleyways, with arches, flowery balconies, stairways, and courtyards. 

The streets are filled with cafes and restaurants. Join the evening passeggiata and order from the macelleria, where diners can pick out meat and have it grilled or roasted to order. Other local delicacies include fave e cicone selvatiche (broad beans with wild chicory) and orechiette con braciole e polpette (pasta with tomato sauce, stuffed beef rolls and bread balls).

This region of Italy offers plenty of other amazing food, with great wine and miles of beautiful Adriatic coastline. Biking, hiking, wine tasting and summer food festivals, along with local shopping, are all conveniently close by. 

Located just a few miles from the famous White Town of Ostuni, the property is also ideally placed for exploring the Valle d’Itria and the other historical villages of Martina Franca and Locorotondo.

It's just a short drive to some of Puglia’s loveliest beaches on the Costa Merlata. The charming little fishing harbour of Savelletri and the lovely old town of Ceglie Messapica, renowned for its excellent cuisine, are both under a half hour away. 

LOCATION

Cisternino, Puglia, Italy. Nearest airports: Both Bari and Brinidisi can be reached in less than an hour.

BEST TIME TO VISIT:  Spring to fall