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Bode Country House
Monsanto, Portugal
Bode Country House
Monsanto, Portugal
In the Heart of Portuguese Hill Country
Named for the goats that once roamed this hilltop, this country inn gracefully combines old and new. The simply designed, sturdy property pairs historic, "if these walls could talk" stone rooms, used for generations for pressing wine and olives, with a newly constructed architectural annex built of wood stairstepping boldly up a gentle rise.
A contemporary country inn offering warm, Wabi-Sabi-inspired rooms, this rural residence hides an ancient stone bistro at its heart, and is set within a picturesque village once referred to as an “island in the sky.” Views are wide, pastoral and peaceful, with each suite featuring a balcony or small terrace, and an infinity pool reflects from within its granite boulder boundary.
The property provides select local experiences, from nature walks and more arduous trekking adventures, to paddle boarding, mountain biking and birdwatching. Gastro fans will appreciate the guided mushroom picking and olive harvesting tours as well as wandering the cafés and small tasting stops within the town’s maze of cobbled streets.
AROUND
Located in the granite pocked Beira Baixa countryside less than 30 kilometers from the Spanish border, this country inn showcases this notable region’s characteristic rugged granite boulders. Hewn of regional stone just like the village of Monsanto, the traditional regional architecture seems carved into the landscape—almost cave-like. In fact, some residences look like they could house Fred Flintstone with their boulder-flanked front doors.
A small, tight-knit community of some 800 residents, Monsanto has been awarded the designation as “the most Portuguese of villages” and has been a listed Historical Village of Portugal for decades. Village streets are cobblestone, too, and all services—grocers, restaurants, cafes, pharmacies—are available in town. The town’s landmark Tour de Lucano, an ancient belltower, dates from the 14th century, topped by a rooster, symbol of Portugal. A fortified castle dominates the hillside over the village, a sturdy fortress also built into and out of the rounded boulders. The castle offers views for miles and an athletic walk to reach it. A nearby waterfall and swimming hole at the Pego River in Penha Garcia is a favorite local destination only about 12 kilometers from Monsanto, and a drive into Spain and back makes for a great day trip.
LOCATION
Monsanto, Portugal. Nearest airport: Lisbon (55 miles)
BEST TIME TO VISIT: March to September
