Casa dos Cabeçudos

House of the Headstrong: A Sturdy Vacation Fortress

A sturdy structure that combines original, traditional stone with angular walls of poured concrete and glass, this residence manages to be at once classic and ultra-contemporary. Its four suites, Turkish bath, and two living areas have been kept spare and minimalist, and a swimming pool stretches out coolly alongside old stone walls. The house features an enclosed grassy, landscaped garden and is located within a village only minutes from the beach.

The sturdy stones at the origin of this villa for rent in Portugal were architecturally updated with an embrace of concrete, resulting in a strong angular structure that feels at once primitive and raw, sleek and contemporary. The house’s name—Cabeçudos—refers to the “headstrong,” and this architect-designed getaway definitely showcases a primitive strength, all stone and concrete, softened by blonde wood built-ins and slightly brighter walls in pale matte tones or generous panes of glass. 

A study in cool greys, the home’s interior features raw concrete both overhead and underfoot, and the décor is also spare and minimalist. Details include walls where old stone has been left exposed, and light, knotty pine shelving, doors, beds and cabinetry throughout.

Four bedrooms and five bathrooms offer minimal sleeping quarters. Two bedrooms come furnished with double beds, one with a pair of twin beds, and the fourth a bunk room. En-suite baths feature walk-in showers, and pine clads the sink vanities and lines the open closets as shelving. Pine was used to create the simple cubicle cabinetry in the windowed living room that also features a contemporary wood stove. Linens and living room furnishings are earth toned and muted, and area rugs provide the only subtle pops of color. Wide glass windows on three sides of the open concept living, kitchen and dining area offer views into the landscaped garden, and the kitchen is equipped with a narrow bar island as well as access to a simple outdoor dining terrace with a picnic table.

The strong, masculine lines are most evident outdoors, where the pool and Turkish bath are enclosed within the home’s original stone walls. Concrete forms from the home’s addition jut out at right angles, creating shaded porches, stairs, and landscaping beds. The home’s overall feeling is fortress-like and forceful, a strong modern structure standing out within a small, traditional village, only minutes from Paco Beach and the Atlantic.

AROUND

This villa for rent in Portugal is conveniently located only a few minutes from Afife Beach, a wide expanse of sand and seagrass-clumped dunes reached via wooden walkways that were created to protect the marine environment. 

The area invites walks in nature and welcomes wave, wind, and kite surfers, as well as families with small children who enjoy the lagoon that forms at one end of the beach, at the mouth of a small river. Kayaking and SUP rentals are available, as well as guided boat tours along the nearby waterway. 

A short drive up the coast from Afife is the Vila Praia de Ancora, regularly named as one of Portugal's top beaches, and the beaches of Moledo and Caminha are also nearby. Local beach areas feature bars and cafes. Enjoy traditional ambience and daily fresh fish at local favorite Mariana and sophisticated flavors and outdoor dining at Senor Bacalhau. There is a small supermarket within Afife village for everyday provisions, as well as larger grocers and markets in nearby Ancora. Fans of seafood will appreciate the local fishing harbor at Ancora, where local fisherman sell the daily catch. The best traditional weekly market in the region is found in Vila Nova de Cerveira.

If you feel like exploring Spain, the house is 25km from the bridge that connects Vila Nova de Cerveira in Portugal with Galicia in Spain, or 15km from the ferry from Caminha to Galicia (for access to A Guardia and Bayona, with their great restaurants).

LOCATION

Afife, Portugal. Nearest airports: Vigo (53km), Porto (62km).

BEST TIME TO VISIT: April to September