Villa Ulmus

Designer Kazuni at the Forest's Edge

Walled in and insulated by a Mediterranean garden and lap pool, this angular twin set of stone-and-glass villas gets its inspiration from the dry-stacked, conical agricultural refuges that have become the Istria region’s trademark.

Trading the classic cylindrical and conical for the sharply angular and light filled, the contemporary cubes bring novelty to tradition at the hands of Croatian designer Boris Ruzic. Interiors reveal walls the color of stone topped by smooth, strong concrete ceilings, and raw wood parquet underfoot. Jute wall canvases by Teo Peric and handmade macrame embellishments decorate the minimalist spaces. An olive tree guards the sunlit entrance, and the Mediterranean-meets-Motovun-forest landscape is referenced throughout the organically-focused, straightforward structures. Named for a centenary elm on the property, the twin refuges were designed as a modern expression of this ancient region’s traditional architecture, a juxtaposition of heritage and industrial-inspired materials.

AROUND

Set on the edge of the dense Motovun forest in Croatia’s Istria region, the villa duo occupies a tree-surrounded, green lot where olives and Mediterranean scrub meet old growth elm and oak. The Istria region is shared by three countries—Croatia, Slovenia, and Italy—and is the largest peninsula of the Adriatic Sea, sandwiched between the Gulfs of Trieste and Kvamer. Historically, the peninsula has seen Roman, Venetian and Hapsburg influences, and from the Adriatic Sea to its inland fields, the region is marked by ancient amphitheaters, statuesque bell towers, and strikingly bold ramparts offering vistas for miles. Stony villages teeter atop steep hills, dominating valley vineyards, olive groves and backcountry forests. 

Istria is rich in history, a bit remote from the better-known parts of Croatia, and set in the country’s northernmost reaches. Not surprisingly, given its sea-to-forest landscape, Istria is known for its food culture and richly varied gastronomy. Often referred to as Croatia’s “pantry,” the region is crossed by fruit orchards and cultivated fields of produce, idyllic vineyards and loamy, dark forests where truffles and other prized fungi hide. 

The region’s beaches are mostly pebbled or stretches of golden sand, and snorkelers take to Cape Kamenjak, while Istria’s most celebrated beach is Slatni Rat. Towns to visit in Istria include coastal Pula, with its 2,000+ year old Roman amphitheater and awe-inspiring ruins, Rovinj, the cobbled Venetian village on the water’s edge, Groznjan, a postcard-worthy artists’ enclave perched high above the vineyards, and, of course, nearby Motovun, an ancient Venetian village surrounded by bold ramparts rising from a sea of vineyards. Motovun’s Old Town is a tight maze lined with shops selling local wines, olive oils, truffles and truffle-infused products. Its bold ramparts offer breathtaking views of the dark forest. Hiking, paragliding, cycling, fishing on the Mira river, and foraging tours of the thick forests are all available, as are tasting rooms and taverns showcasing local wines and dozens of homey cafes and restaurants serving the delectably rich and varied local fare.

LOCATION

Motovun, Istria, Croatia. Nearest airport: Pula, 1 hour; Trieste, 2 hours

BEST TIME TO VISIT: May to October